In an episode of his new CNN travel series, chef David Chang is driving along the highway en route to Las Vegas when he makes a stop at a modest truck stop just off Interstate 15.

The town in question is Hesperia, California, where the producers were keen for Chang to sample an Indian restaurant situated near a windshield repair store.

However, Chang's attention is caught by a Mexican cantina that appears rather promising.

He instinctively opts to dine at both establishments, much to the consternation of his camera crew.

"I merely wished to taste things.

When something catches my eye, I'm like, 'Oh, that looks interesting.

I would like to taste that,'" he says in an interview.

"Much to the dismay of the producers and the team, they're like, 'No, no.

We got to go here.'

I was like, 'You don't understand.

I told you guys that if we're going to do the show, everything's on the table.'"

“Everything’s On the Table” could serve as a fitting alternative title for the six-part “The Detour with David Chang,” in which the renowned founder of the Momofuku global restaurant chain teams up with a companion and takes to the open road, eating his way across America.

It premieres Sunday.

Chang indulges in Filipino cuisine in South Las Vegas, sinks her teeth into a traditional Czech puff pastry in Texas, and samples Haitian fare for the first time in Miami.

The show’s motto is: “All we’ve got is a destination. Everything else is a detour.”

He is paired with friends and strangers alike, ranging from Cord Jefferson, the director and writer of “American Fiction,” to Cristela Alonzo, a comedian, actor, and writer, who acquaints him with her Texas.

In Tennessee, he rides alongside Christina Tosi, the founder of Milk Bar, who is almost like a surrogate sister to him.

The show is about exploring and connecting with locals to find hidden gems, like the spot that serves killer Cuban fritas at a laundromat.

Or the chefs who take barbecue and combine Asian flavors, creating oak-smoked pulled pork with Penang curry.

Or the family serving Honduran food truck breakfast that helps heal Chang’s terrible rum hangover.

"I enjoy dining out, but as I grow older, staying in and doing less also holds a certain appeal.

And I believe that over the past few years, I've undoubtedly become somewhat calcified," says Chang.

"Whenever you step outside your comfort zone or your little bubble, I think it serves as a good reminder that there's so much else out there."

Chang is entering an already saturated arena of celebrity travel hosts, a roster that boasts Daniel Dae Kim, Tony Shalhoub, Rainn Wilson, Eugene Levy, Stanley Tucci, Orlando Bloom, Zac Efron, José Andrés, Chris Hemsworth, Will Smith, Eva Longoria and Ewan McGregor.

Awkwafina is next in line.

All are indebted to Anthony Bourdain, who inspired millions to share in his delight in food and the bonds it forged.

Bourdain died in 2018.

Amy Entelis, executive vice president of talent, CNN Originals and creative development, observes that Chang is the first chef to host a CNN original series since Bourdain.

"Dave isn't trying to define American food or find the 'best' restaurant in every city. It's almost the opposite," she says.

"He gets in the car, talks to people and follows recommendations that take him somewhere he didn't expect to go.

At a time when an algorithm can tell you where to eat, where to stay and what to see, there's something really appealing about just getting a little lost and seeing what you find."

The series began to take shape when Chang and executive producer Morgan Neville were chatting one day about what it was like to discover new indie rock bands in the days before the internet and influencers, and the joy of finding one.

“I felt that this was, in a sense, how I felt about food as well,” says Chang.

“Listen, it is easier to eat than ever before.

But, in some respects, it is harder to find something that is meaningful to you.”

One of the show's standout moments is the charming manner in which he winds up at an Ethiopian restaurant in Las Vegas, having heeded a taxi driver's recommendation.

The slow-cooked chicken and injera — the sour, spongy flatbread — served as a reminder to Chang of just how excellent that cuisine is.

I will die on the hill that Ethiopian food ranks among the world’s greatest cuisines.

There is simply nothing comparable, and it represents a singular approach to texture and flavour — precisely the kind of fare that enjoys such widespread popularity nowadays: communal dining, whereby everyone partakes of the same dishes yet customises them to their own liking.

He learns that in Texas the Holy Trinity is brisket, ribs and sausage, but some local chefs are also putting their own spins on classic dishes.

Like pitmaster Chuck Charnichart at the eatery Barbs in Lockhart, who adds serrano glaze on her ribs and zests fresh limes over them.

“It feels like I have a front-row seat to Dylan going electric,” Chang says in admiration.

Throughout the series, Chang displays a gentle humour and a willingness to try anything, dropping references to the painter Rothko, the musician John Coltrane and the director Terrence Malick along the way.

And, of course, always snacking on corn nuts.

“When you really consider it, I’m being remunerated to go and dine and socialise with friends,” he says, laughing.

“I have absolutely nothing to complain about.

And it serves as a pleasant reminder that this is, quite literally, a dream job.”