Deep-frying (zhà), a well-known technique in which food is fried in a pool of hot oil, cooking it while creating a crispy exterior, is used throughout the “Frying” chapter of my cookbook “The Chinese Way.”

When deep-frying, I employ a thermometer, targeting a range of 350°F to 375°F.

An alternative method for gauging the temperature is to insert a wooden chopstick into the oil; should tiny bubbles rise rapidly around it, the heat is sufficient.

Deep-frying frequently entails a double-fry technique.

This method has traditionally been employed in Shanghai for shrimp and fish steaks, and it proves particularly effective for chicken.

An initial fry at a low temperature seals in the juices and sets the exterior, yielding a light coating.

A second fry at a higher temperature then cooks the chicken through and intensifies the crispiness.

The coating in question is seasoned with cumin, its texture being derived from crushed sesame seeds.

Two scallions, roughly chopped

Three plump cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed.

Two teaspoons of freshly grated ginger

A solitary teaspoon of kosher salt

A quarter teaspoon of finely ground white pepper

A quantity of two tablespoons of Shaoxing wine

A solitary tablespoon of light soy sauce

Roughly 1 ½ to 2 pounds of boneless, skinless chicken thighs

A quarter of a cup of white sesame seeds

A quantity of two tablespoons of sugar

A quantity of potato starch commensurate with three-quarters of a cup

1 teaspoon of ground cumin

CUMIN SALT:

A quantity of half a teaspoon of kosher salt

Half a teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper

A half teaspoon of ground cumin

A quarter of a teaspoon of smoked paprika

LEMON MAYONNAISE:

A quarter cup of Kewpie mayonnaise

The juice extracted from a single lemon

A solitary clove of garlic, minced to a fine consistency

Neutral oil, intended for the purpose of frying

Marinate the chicken: Having cut the chicken into 1½ to 2-inch chunks, combine the scallions, garlic, ginger, salt, white pepper, Shaoxing wine, sesame oil and soy sauce in a medium bowl.

Add the chicken and toss to coat.

Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Approximately one hour prior to cooking, remove the chicken from the refrigerator and allow it to attain room temperature.

Meanwhile, prepare the breading: reduce the sesame seeds and sugar to a coarse powder, whether by means of a mortar and pestle or, alternatively, by pulsing them in a food processor.

In a shallow bowl, combine the sesame seed mixture with the potato starch and cumin.

Set aside.

To make the cumin salt, stir the ingredients together and set the mixture aside.

Should you be preparing the lemon mayonnaise, do so by combining the mayonnaise, lemon juice and garlic in a small bowl.

Refrigerate it until you are ready to serve.

To fry the chicken, heat 2 inches of neutral oil to 335°F in a large, deep, heavy pot.

Position a wire cooling rack within a baking sheet, and line a large plate with several layers of paper towels.

Prepare an additional one for use following frying.

Working in batches, remove the chicken from the marinade, permitting any residual liquid to drain from each piece, and transfer the chicken to the breading mixture.

Turn each piece so that it is thoroughly coated with the breading, then arrange it on the first prepared wire rack.

Upon the oil attaining a temperature of 335°F, gently coat the chicken with additional breading mixture, then carefully lower it into the hot oil.

Fry for 90 seconds, or until the chicken is pale golden and slightly puffy, whereupon transfer it to the second wire rack using a slotted spoon.

Repeat the breading and frying procedure with the remaining chicken, permitting the oil to return to 335°F between batches and employing a slotted spoon to extract any stray breading from the oil.

Upon completion of the initial frying stage, the oil temperature ought to be elevated to 350°F.

Refry each batch for an additional 3 to 5 minutes, gently turning the pieces on occasion, until the chicken is uniformly golden brown and registers an internal temperature of no less than 165°F.

Transfer the fried chicken to the paper towel-lined plate to drain, then dust it with the cumin salt.

Accompany it with the lemon mayonnaise, should you so wish.

Betty Liu is a cookbook author, photographer and doctor who is completing her surgical residency.

An avid home cook who chronicles Chinese home cooking on her award-winning blog, she published her debut book, “My Shanghai,” in 2021, and it was named one of the best cookbooks of the year.

Excerpted from “The Chinese Way” by Betty Liu.

Copyright (copyright) 2024 by Betty Liu.

Used with permission of Voracious, an imprint of Little, Brown and Company.

New York, NY.

All rights reserved.

https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/titles/betty-liu/the-chinese-way/9780316485432/