Deep-fry (zhà)—a ubiquitous technique whereby comestibles are immersed in a reservoir of heated oil, simultaneously cooking them through and effecting a crisp exterior—pervades the “Frying” chapter of my cookbook “The Chinese Way.”

When deep-frying, I employ a thermometer, striving for a range of 350°F to 375°F.

An alternative means of gauging the temperature is to immerse a wooden chopstick in the oil; should diminutive bubbles ascend rapidly around it, the heat is adequate.

Deep-frying frequently entails a double-fry technique—a method traditionally employed in Shanghai for shrimp and fish steaks, and one that proves especially efficacious with chicken.

An initial fry at a low temperature seals in the juices and sets the exterior, yielding a delicate coating.

A subsequent fry at a higher temperature then cooks the chicken through and amplifies its crispiness.

The coating here, seasoned with cumin, derives its texture from crushed sesame seeds.

Two scallions, having been subjected to a coarse chopping

Three conspicuously plump cloves of garlic, divested of their skins and bruised.

Two teaspoons of ginger, freshly grated

A solitary teaspoon of kosher salt

A quarter teaspoon of fastidiously pulverised white pepper

A quantity comprising two tablespoons of Shaoxing wine

A solitary tablespoon of light soy sauce

Boneless, skinless chicken thighs, collectively tipping the scales at a weight spanning from one and a half to two pounds

A quarter cup of white sesame seeds

A quantity of sugar tantamount to two tablespoonfuls

A quantity constituted by three-quarters of a cup of potato starch

A solitary teaspoon of cumin, ground to an impalpable fineness.

CUMIN SALT:

A scant half-teaspoon of kosher salt

Half a teaspoonful of black pepper, freshly ground

A half teaspoonful of cumin, reduced to an impalpable powder

A quarter-teaspoon of smoked paprika

LEMON MAYONNAISE:

A quarter-cup measure of Kewpie mayonnaise

The juice expressed from a solitary lemon

A solitary clove of garlic, minced to an exceedingly fine consistency

Neutral oil, intended expressly for the purpose of frying

To marinate the chicken: sever it into 1½- to 2-inch chunks.

In a medium bowl, amalgamate the scallions, garlic, ginger, salt, white pepper, Shaoxing wine, sesame oil and soy sauce.

Introduce the chicken and toss until uniformly coated.

Cover and allow to macerate in the refrigerator for no fewer than 4 hours, or overnight.

Some sixty minutes in advance of cooking, extract the chicken from the refrigerator and permit it to reach ambient temperature.

In the meantime, prepare the breading: reduce the sesame seeds, along with the sugar, to a coarse powder by means of a mortar and pestle, or, alternatively, pulse them in a food processor.

Combine the resulting sesame mixture with the potato starch and cumin in a shallow bowl.

Set aside.

To prepare the cumin salt, amalgamate the constituents by stirring, and thereafter set the resultant mixture aside.

Should you elect to prepare the lemon mayo, whisk together the mayonnaise, lemon juice, and garlic in a small bowl, then refrigerate until you are ready to serve.

To fry the chicken: bring 2 inches of neutral oil to 335°F in a large, deep, heavy pot.

Situate a wire cooling rack within a baking sheet, and line a large plate with several layers of paper towels.

Have a second such plate at the ready for once the frying is complete.

Working in batches, extract the chicken from the marinade, allowing any residual liquid to drain from each piece, and deposit the chicken into the breading mixture.

Turn each piece so as to achieve an exhaustive coating of breading, then transfer it to the first prepared wire rack.

Upon the oil's attainment of 335°F, gently anoint the chicken with additional breading mixture, thereafter easing it with circumspection into the heated oil.

Fry for 90 seconds, or until the chicken is of a pale golden hue and slightly puffed, then, employing a slotted spoon, transfer it to the second wire rack.

Replicate the breading and frying procedure with the residual chicken, permitting the oil to regain 335°F between successive batches and employing a slotted spoon to extract any extraneous breading from the oil.

Upon completion of the initial frying, elevate the oil temperature to 350°F.

Refry each batch for a further 3 to 5 minutes, gently and intermittently turning the pieces, until the chicken is uniformly golden brown and registers an internal temperature of no less than 165°F.

Transfer the fried chicken to the paper towel-lined plate to drain, then dust it with the cumin salt.

Accompany it with the lemon mayonnaise, should one so desire.

Betty Liu is a cookbook author, photographer and doctor completing her surgical residency.

An avid home cook who chronicles Chinese home cooking on her award-winning blog, she published her debut book, “My Shanghai,” in 2021, and it was named one of the best cookbooks of the year.

Excerpted from “The Chinese Way” by Betty Liu.

Copyright © 2024 by Betty Liu.

Reproduced by permission of Voracious, an imprint of Little, Brown and Company, New York, NY.

All rights reserved.

https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/titles/betty-liu/the-chinese-way/9780316485432/