
September 24th, 2026
Milan has new creative directors.
They are changing the rules at old Italian brands.
Maria Grazia Chiuri made Fendi feel free.
Simone Bellotti made Jil Sander feel relaxed.
Meryll Rogge brought generations together at Marni.
In their second and third seasons, designers start their own path.
They also grow the fashion house.
Rogge showed Marni's Spring Summer 2027 show on Thursday.
It was for men and women.
She said Marni has great famous codes.
She wants to keep them.
She said she must find her own way.
She wants to honor the brand and its values.
She wants young people to dream.
She wants other generations to dream too.
She said Marni is for all ages.
She said a new bag first sold to a 17-year-old girl.
Then it sold to an 80-year-old woman.
The clothes looked younger.
There were pedal pushers and short dresses.
There were also short-haired goat fur coats.
These coats are for any age.
Chiuri held her second Fendi show.
It was inside glass walls.
The music was Italian dance classics.
She spoke after the show on Wednesday.
She said she wanted a hall of mirrors.
In it, people see themselves in other people's bodies.
Chiuri is 62.
She said the nightclub was free for her generation.
It was a way to connect with others.
She came back to Fendi.
She started there as an accessories designer.
She also worked at Valentino and Dior.
Her show was for men and women.
It started with underwear.
Bare skin was very important.
She mixed silk slips with military jackets.
She mixed them with cape-like coats and patchwork fur coats.
Fans and an anti-fur protest slowed the guests.
Fendi keeps its fur history.
But it uses more upcycled pieces now.
Bellotti showed his third Jil Sander show.
He made the simple uniform softer.
He used new tailoring.
The shapes were long.
There were three-quarter-length jackets and argyle knitwear.
There were also pleats and built-in capes.
Bellotti spoke after the show on Wednesday.
He said he likes to change precision a little.
He said it is more honest.
Two coats were special.
They had a big cutaway saddle flap.
It was like a royal riding jacket.
People made it by hand.
Bellotti said it is very beautiful to see this work.
People made it with their hands.
September 24th, 2026

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